百年料亭 (hyaku-nen ryotei) are known in Japan as ‘100-Year Restaurants’, some with more than 100 years of history, that are usually hailed for their rich and diverse history.
Nestled in the quiet downtown district of Wakamatsu in the northern part of Kyushu, the southwestern most of Japan’s main islands, lies Ryotei Kinnabe - one of the countries 100-year restaurants - and Kyushu's first beef hot pot restaurant.
Established more than a century ago around 1895 (Meiji-era 28), Kinnabe was popular with wealthy coal industry workers and infantry regiments stationed in the nearby castle. At the time Wakamatsu was largely a developing coal shipping port for the Chikuho coalfield. Back then coal meant money, and as you walk around the town you can still see the remnants of the time when prosperity was at large. In 2004 it was listed as a national tangible cultural property.
As you walk up to the traditional wooden gates of the building you are greeted the lovely women staff wearing their traditional kimono wear. This combined with Meiji period architecture gives you a sense of what you are about to experience. Once you enter you take off your shoes and make your way through the winding hallways and upstairs to a large tatami room where your seating is delicately ordered on long wooden tables.
Kinnabe prides itself on culture and tradition serving up dishes that make use of local seafood and fresh ingredients that change with the seasons. At first glance, you can instantly see that what sits in front of you has been created by the first-class chef from the delicate slices of sashimi to garnishes throughout.
For lunch, we enjoyed kaiseki cuisine, traditional multi-course Japanese lunch, for a pretty reasonable price. Kaiseki lunch costs around 4,000 yen (excluding tax and service charge).
A wonderful array of fresh seafood from the nearby ports and locally harvested vegetables to help celebrate and accompany the traditional flavours.
If you are heading down to Kitakyushu definitely make a stop to experience Kinnabe in Wakamatsu city and experience some of Japan’s historical foodie culture. The service and meal is impeccable and provides a special experience while in Kitakyushu.
From Hakata station Ryotei Kinnabe is about an hour by shinkansen and JR train - perfect if you have a Japan Rail Pass. If you are coming from Hiroshima it’s just over an hour and a half by Shinkansen. If you are driving it’s just over an hour drive from Hakata or Fukuoka airport.
